Tuesday, November 28, 2006

The Himba



In 2003, when Karutijambja left her village to fetch water at the Kunene River, a crocodile grabbed her and dragged her under. Her dog attacked, and the croc let Karutijambja go, grabbing the dog instead. Karutijambja was flown out to the hospital by the good folks at the Serra Cafema Lodge, and, amazingly, lived to tell the tale. Part of her right breast is missing, and when her daughter suckles, she can use only the left. The attack has given Karutijambja somewhat of a wild reputation, along with the horrible nickname "Krocodilla" among tourists.

Karutijambja, above, wears a headpiece that signifies that she is a married woman.

The Himba are descendants of the Herrero peoples who live spread across harsh Kaokoland in northern Namibia. Nomadic pastoralits, they are known for having upheld their traditions in the face of pressure to modernize. The women cover their bodies in a paste of red ochre and butterfat, which protects their skin from the sun and desert wind, and from mosquitoes. As well, this scented paste blocks odour; it is often impossible, with only croc-infested waters nearby, to bathe. The Himba women and girls have unique hair and jewellery--pre-pubescent girls wear their hair in two braids spiking forward over the face; pubescent girls wear multiple braids of shorn hair and ash pulled forward and roped back off their faces; married women wear long ochre-bound plaits. The tribe wears few clothes beyond loin cloths; when night begins to fall, they wrap themselves up tight in blankets.

Stay tuned to my upcoming travel site for more. Once it's up, it will feature a slideshow of the Himba people.

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